Critical accessories

If you have recently picked up an M365, I think you'll find you made the right choice. It's fun, easy to ride, and probably gives you the most for your money. Along with that comes some extra work, at least to have the best and safest experience. The Mijia is kinda like that fixer house— cheap, but renovate it here and there and you get a pretty solid place to live with some cash to spare.

So let's get started with several set-up tips and tricks to work on right out of the box. And after that, you really want to put money into upgrades. In this article I'll detail what I've learned after 7 months of regular riding.

Strengthen stem lock

Broken hook and pin

If there's one big shortcoming of the M365, it's the stem lock or the mechanism that allows the scooter to fold in half. The hook in this mechanism can crack after lots of opening & closing the scooter, not to mention bumps and rattling from riding. In fact, mine failed at about 650 km and just about sent me tumbling.

So this is an area where some aftermarket replacement parts are really worth it. See Reinforcing the Defective Xiaomi M365 Stem Lock.

Eliminate all stem wobble/creak

You may have noticed the stem quickly develops a wobble and that the steel pin above the locking mechanism falls out. This is really not good and can be addressed by tightening down the hook, intalling an extra bolt through the stem, and using a plastic dampener.

I've gone into more detail about these fixes in Getting rid of all Xiaomi M365 stem wobble and creak.

Adjust and improve braking

One of the best features of the M365 is that it has a great disk brake, though it requires calibration to actually be effective. If you haven't already realized, it engages at the same time as the motor brake when pulling the lever.

The idea of this minimalistic design is good but in practice this results in jerky braking. I also found the built-in brake does not have enough travel to completely lock up the rear wheel. So what many do is actually split out each brake into its own lever. That allows you to mostly use the smooth hardware brake but still bring in the motor brake when you really need to stop. And you can buy a better lever with more travel.

If you want to try it, this mod is easier than it sounds. Purchase a right-hand mountain bike brake lever and slide it on the handlebar where there's a convenient gap. If you don't want to deal with any disassembly, you can choose a lever that opens up completely such as this one with the switch/wire taken off.

Otherwise, you have to slide off the rubber grip and unplug the throttle. To do that, take off the head unit's cover (where the power button is), pop out the rubber seal from the front cavity of the bar, and find the small connector behind the bluetooth unit (BLE). There are lots of photos and detailed tutorials out there for further help with this.

Once installed, it's just a matter of moving the cable over. The existing lever now only controls the motor brake and is looser. Use some rubber bands or an additional spring to retain some of the resistance given by the brake line.

Top of brake Back of brake

Regardless of whether you split out the brake, definitely still adjust the caliper assembly. You want the pads as close as possible to the rotor (metal disk) without rubbing too much.

I decided that some slight rubbing is actually fine. Between the possibility of being slightly warped and being at an off-angle, the assembly shifts over time while riding it such that this issue corrects itself. This makes the action as responsive as possible.

Prop the scooter up so you can rotate the rear wheel freely. While making adjustments, spin it and squeeze the lever as that can 'settle' the mechanism.

Then, you'll want to look at three adjustments. First, get the overall action tighter via the braking cable's clamp. This is not unlike any other disk brake adjustment.

Then, two screws mounting the whole assembly adjust the overall angle of the pads as they contact the disk. Try and get the close pad as close as possible to the disk without rubbing.

Lastly, bring in the rear/far pad by loosening the small set screw on the top of the unit and rotating the whole circular back pad.

Oil the stem lock

Oil the lock

The stem lock doesn't have any lubrication from the factory. You probably have found getting it unlocked after initial locking requires two hands and a lot of effort. As I mentioned before, I highly suggest replacing some key parts in the mechanism. In my experience this actually resolves the issue.

If it doesn't, open the lock and carefully drop a small amount of oil directly on the hinge axis. I used simple household olive oil as the mechanism just needs some initial persuasion. Move the whole column around to make sure the oil gets worked into the joint. Clean up any excess with some paper.

Protect the rear fender

There are a few shortcomings of the rear render. The hook that secures the stem while folded has a rubber sleeve, but it can fall off and get lost. If you have some spray adhesive or superglue, put a drop/tiny spray of it on the hook. Slip the sleeve back on and evenly distribute by pressing it around.

You may have also noticed how much the fender shakes around while riding and some report that it snaps off as a result. I have not encountered this problem but to cover your bases, a popular solution is to install a support bracket that connects the backside of the brake light to the axis bolts of the wheel or their covers. Take a look at eBay for some options or try out Vilda's vastly improved part.

Bracket protecting the tail light

If you decide not to use the bracket, I suggest at least protecting the light wire. It can be damaged by the spinning wheel over time especially with all the bouncing around of the fender. I used a small scrap bracket to protect it, but many are using a 3D printed piece of plastic to do the job. If you go with DIY, all you need is a hole in whatever material you use for one or both of the tail light screws.

Buy spare tubes

Your first flat won't be fun. You should have a patch kit and try patching first. But it still doesn't hurt to have a set of spares. Don't want to be waiting to get back on the road.

Note you need one front, one back - Xiaomi Mijia M365 Electric Scooter Tires

Improve power

The M365 is software-limited at stock. The modding community has produced a way to tweak the scooter's firmware to unlock a lot of power and acceleration. Remember, however, that it's still only a scooter and isn't the most stable means of transportation. Be careful. Mod at your own risk.

To make these changes, you'll use an open-source firmware customization tool. It's exposed as a web app at m365.botox.bz. You'll install a patched .apk (on the page), create your .bin file via the tool, and flash it via bluetooth to your scooter.

Some abbreviations to know:

  • DRV: "Driver" or the main controller. This is what you customize.

  • BMS: Battery Management System. Manages battery charging & discharging.

  • BLE: Bluetooth Module or the handlebar controller. Sits behind the power button.

  • CFW: Custom Firmware

  • DYoC: Do your own CFW

  • KERS: Kinetic Energy Recovery System. What puts drag on the motor when not accelerating.

Xiaomi dislikes these mods and is engaged in a game of cat-and-mouse to prevent the usage of custom firmware. Currently, they've locked down DRV versions 1.4.2 and 1.4.1. The DRV firmware is moddable only at 1.4.0 and below.

If you are on un-moddable firmware, roll back to 1.4.0 first via this modified firmware (Gyronews Page).

See My Xiaomi Mijia M365 DYoC Settings for more info about firmware customization.

Add LCD HUD

Russian modders have developed awesome displays that show you speed, battery level, and other metrics. One requires soldering and mounts on the handlebar, and another doesn't require soldering and mounts above the power/battery display in the center of the handlebars.

To order one, go to their Telegram group: Display for Xiaomi Mijia m365. Read the pinned message for instructions and the order form.

Cool mods to consider

  • Method to add blinkers, a horn, or any other 12V components: Grip Buttons, Blinkers, and Horn, or a minimal part list

  • Bag hook - Cheap and adds a lot to the utility of the scooter. There is a common popular model but I don't recommend it because it only mounts via one bolt and doesn't stay put. Look instead for a two-hole design. For example, this model is much more secure.

  • Carrying bag - Also pretty cheap and allows you to more easily take the scooter inside. Aliexpress

  • Metal battery cover - Vilda, though you can find other options if you look around. Protects against debris like nails that could damage your internals.

  • Sandpaper footboard - Several options on Aliexpress

Join Telegram groups for ongoing tips and support

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